Bonjour de Dakar, Sénégal! After having only been here for about a month, I can already understand why Senegal is called “The Land of Teranga.” Teranga is a Wolof word that can be loosely translated into English as “hospitality” or “warm welcome”. I have certainly felt warmly welcomed in Senegal. From my Airbnb hosts generously inviting me to eat traditional Senegalese food to shopkeepers patiently speaking slow French with me, it’s clear that the spirit of Teranga permeates the culture of this country.
This summer, I am interning at the UNESCO International Institute for Educational Planning in Africa on the Technical Cooperation team. IIEP-UNESCO is headquartered in Paris, France, with Regional Offices in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and Dakar, Senegal. Its mission is to strengthen the capacity of UNESCO Member States to plan and manage their education systems. Crucially, IIEP is dedicated to providing technical support and training to Ministries of Education and engaging collaboratively to ensure sustainable planning. This often involves supporting governments in developing their Education Sector Plans and conducting Education Sector Analyses.
Before this internship, I was familiar with some of IIEP-UNESCO’s work, but it has been an incredible learning experience so far to see up close how much work and deep thought go into each report. I am excited to be involved in IIEP-UNESCO’s Planning for Inclusive Education Regional Program in West Africa, funded by the Italian Cooperation through the Italian Agency for Development Cooperation (AICS). This program supports eight countries in West Africa in improving inclusive educational planning for children and youth with disabilities. In my work, I have been focusing on Sierra Leone. One of my favorite aspects of this internship has been the opportunity to delve into completely new contexts each time I work on a project in a different country. Through researching and writing, I feel that I have already greatly expanded my understanding of various countries throughout Africa. I’ve loved diving into how the specific contexts in each country impact the education systems and present different challenges and opportunities. Even within a single region or country on the continent, there is incredible diversity in language, religion, and culture. I am looking forward to continuing to expand my understanding of education in the African context and developing my skills in evidence-based policy planning.
Outside of the office, I have been finding time to explore Dakar! Some of the highlights for me so far have been negotiating with vendors at the Marché Soumbédoiune artisans market; climbing up many, many steps to see the African Renaissance Monument, and taking a small ferry to Ngor Island for a relaxing beach day. One of the most fascinating cultural experiences I have had was attending a Senegalese wrestling tournament with some new friends. This type of wrestling is called Laamb in Wolof and Lutte avec frappe in French. It’s derived from West African folk traditions and has become the national sport of Senegal. Each wrestler had their own rituals before fighting. Some buried good-luck charms in each of the four corners of the sand pit in which the fights would take place. One wrestler even released a few live doves out of a potato sack. There were also drummers and traditional dancers who kept the crowd entertained between fights. The excitement of the sport and energy of the fans definitely made up for the pain of sitting on concrete steps for three hours.
Finally, I have to mention the World Cup. I had never really paid much attention to it before, but with Senegal’s team playing in the tournament, I have now become a dedicated fan. On days when Senegal has a match, the anticipation is palpable. During my taxi ride to a watch party for the Senegal and France game, I watched out the windows to see that every third person or so was wearing a jersey, and many street vendors had switched from their normal fare to Senegalese flags and scarves. When Senegal scored a goal, we could hear cheers erupt throughout the city. Allez les Lions!
I have a little less than two months left in Dakar at this point, and I am eager to see what other adventures are in store for me this summer. Merci, jërëjëf, and thank you for reading!
Camden Thorngate is a current M.A. Candidate in the International Education Program at the George Washington University. Her research interests are education in emergencies, international education development, and peace education.